408-411 reverse lamps

This is Lucas part L595.

The reverse lamp is shared with the Jaguar e type series 1.

Can be purchased from Jaguar specialists and eBay.  Gaskets, lenses and surrounds can be purchased on their own.

One source to consider is SNG Barratt where new units cost about £45 each.  

408-411 front side light/ indicators

The front indicator/ side light units are Lucas model L584.  There are separate left and right handed units.

These can presently be purchased from Holden’s for about £50 a unit or Ebay used for a little less.

Wiper upgrade on 2-litre cars

The problem with existing systems is often the poor state of the rack and wheel boxes as well as a tired motor.  Modern wiper systems for kit cars are readily available and transform the original system on the 2-litre cars.  Stick with the existing wipers or, if you are serious, fit a modern system. 
Such a system comes from Stafford Vehicle Components.  It can be adapted to use modified original wheel boxes so no changes to the holes in the scuttle.  A fair amount of fettling required.  It’s not a direct swap.  Once set up it is superb.
Holden’s and J&L Spares who recondition wiper motors may offer alternative approaches.

On the other hand, just disassembling, degreasing and re-greasing the various parts of the Lucas system will often speed things up and make the mechanism more vigorous.  Motors also often need their commutators polished and the grooves between commutator segments deepened so the brushes make good contact with the brass segments.  Relubrication of the motor bearings almost always helps speed them up.

Useful information on the Lucas DR1 and DR3 wiper motors as installed on the 2-litre and Jaguar XK 140 cars is contained here.

Steve Hunt often has reconditioned motors and parts for sale. He has a shop on ebay and his contact details are

15 Southam Close
Hall Green
Birmingham
West Midlands
B28 0AE
United Kingdom
 
Telefon:07885186111
E-Mail:stevehuntwipermotors@gmail.com

Lever arm shock absorbers

A company which reconditions these shock absorbers is;

Stevson Motors Ltd (Specialist classic car hydraulic component manufacturers and recoditioners of lever arm and telescopic shock absorbers)
Unit 1, 2a Harrow Road
Selly Oak, Birmingham B29 7DN
Tel: 0121 472 1702   
Email: stevsonmotors1@aol.com

Engine Mounts for 407,408, 409, 410

Suppliers

The engine mounts for the 318 poly fitted to the 407-410 appear to be a rare and expensive parts kit.  This seems odd given the likely demand in the US.  The Brackets fitted were the Mopar “Floating Power” engine mounts for B body cars.  We were only able to find one US vendor selling new parts along with a number posts from US Plymouth owners grumbling about the price.  $484 plus carriage, taxes and duty!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For later 408’s, 409, 410 & 411

Tools, nuts & bolts

  • British Tools & Fasteners
    7696 NY-31, Lyons, NY 14489, USA
    +1 (315) 946-9400
    (Ship internationally)
  • Tracy Tools Ltd. (Tap & die specialists, engineers tool supplies)
    Unit 1, Parkfield Units
    Barton Hill Way
    Torquay
    TQ2 8JG‎
    Tel: 01803 328603‎

Suppliers of brake parts and services

Hubcaps

Suppliers of hubcaps (Warning: Chrome quality might be poor)

Girling Brake Parts List

Girling_Parts_List-1

According to Girling, this is the master cylinder they supplied for the 411. The Girling master cylinder part number 64068550 cross references to Chrysler UK part number 3058872.

Removing Rear Brake Calipers on 411-S1

Tools

  • 13/16 socket wrench to remove caliper bolts and heavy hammer to get it started (not sure why this is Imperial, not metric, but 13/16 worked the best)
  • 7/16 open wrench to remove brake line (or vice grips if either the nut or line is shot and must be replaced)
  • Wire cutter to cut split pin (cotter pin)
  • 13mm socket wrench to remove shock absorber bracket
  • Small bucket to collect dripping brake fluid
  • Heavy welders gloves to protect hands when a frozen bolt breaks free and smashes your hand into something hard and sharp
  • Magnetic back light that can be positioned inside the wheel well. I bought a strong LED light at the hardware store and a round 65 kg magnet that I bolted to it

Steps

  1. After the health and safety lecture on what you need to do to jack the car up and remove the rear wheels, position the light so you can see the inner workings of the brakes
  2. Cut off the split pin that holds the emergency brake on, remove the pin and remove the cable controls
  3. Unbolt three bolts holding the shock absorber bracket to the axle. Note that the inner one may be hard to access if you leave the shock on the bracket, with the alternative of removing the shock
  4. This gives you room to unbolt the two heavy bolts that hold the caliper to the axle
  5. To loosen the heavy caliper bolts, use an extension bar on the socket wrench, or gently tap the wrench with a heavy mallet. Wear gloves
  6. When the bolts are loose but not yet off, shift to removing the hydraulic brake line that goes along the axle. If badly corroded you may find you have to sacrifice it using vice grips and flare a new pipe when reassembling. Wear gloves
  7. Position the bucket under the pipe, it will slowly drain
  8. Remove the heavy bolts and the brake calipers should come off.

For the most part, this is a standard job, except that the emergency brake and the shock absorbers get in the way.

In my case, the car had been rebuilt 14 years ago and then garaged, so bolts and nuts came apart reasonably easily. For most Bristols, you may not be so lucky. On reassembly do yourself or the next owner a favour… use anti-seize compound.