Table of V8 Bristol car part sources and commonality with other non-Bristol cars.

A member in Germany has compiled a list of equivalent parts for his 411S5 and other V8 cars. He has kindly allowed us to put it on the website.

Bristol V8 Interchange Parts list5/27/2024
Model used Used on DescriptionUsed onSupplier APart no. A Supplier BPart no. B Notes
411/S5BodyFastener for front grilleRange Rover ClassicBritpartRTC3746
411/S5BrakesHandbrake padsBentley, Mulsanne, Eight, etc 84-98TRWGDB563
411/S5BrakesBrake pads frontJaguar E-Type V12TRWGDB531
411/S5Controlsaccelerator link rod bellowsHella9GD 735 641-101
411/S5DoorDoor trim panels clipVolkswagen893867290ebay
411/S5DoorDoor trim panels grommetFiat1903238ebay
411/S5DoorDoor lock block (rubber)Jaguar XJ6 S2+3SNG BarrattBD39809
411/S5DoorDoor striker clip (Clip for BD39809)Jaguar XJ6 S2+3SNG BarrattBD39810
411/S5DoorDoor striker cover rhJaguar XJ6 S2+3BCC3754Chrome, original is Zink plated
411/S5DoorDoor striker cover lhJaguar XJ6 S2+3BCC3755Chrome, original is Zink plated
411/S5DoorClip door linkageJaguar XJ6 S2+3 / Range Rover ClassicBD44650BFP1265L
411/S5DoorDoor handle Gasket -bigJaguar XJ6 S2+3Moss MotorsBD31997ebay
411/S5DoorDoor handle Gasket -smallJaguar XJ6 S2+3Moss MotorsBD31998ebay
411/S5DoorDoor handle rhJaguar XJ6 S1ebayBD40708Wilmot Breeden 1242330Will need small modification on mechanism
411/S5DoorDoor handle lhJaguar XJ6 S1ebayBD40709Wilmot Breeden Will need small modification on mechanism
411/S5DoorRubber seal on rear of door opening 18mm Neoprene Sponge piping ebay
411/S5ElectricsIndicator side repeaterJaguar XJ/XJS, MiniLucasL734Holden.co.ukL734/56859
411/S5ElectricsVoltage regulatorStandard Motor ProductsVR125T
408-411ElectricsReverse lampJaguar E-type S1Lucas L595Holden.co.ukL595/52549
411/S5ElectricsColumn stalkMini, Sprite, MG Midged Lucas 119SA
411/S5ElectricsCourtesy light Switch MG BLucas BHA4593Brown & Gammons
411/S5ElectricsIndicator tell tale lampsLucasWL3Holden.co.uk38018
411/S5ElectricsCooling fan motorsVW Golf, Audi, SeatVolkswagen191959455AA
411/S5ElectricsNumberplate lampLucasL550E
411/S5ElectricsWindscreeen washer bottleLand Rover SeriesTrico
411/S5ElectricsStarter inhibitor relayStandard Motor ProductsSR102
411/S5ElectricsWindow lift limiter switchHandbrake Switch for Jaguar,LotusLucas31893Holden.co.uk31893
411/S5ElectricsStarter motorstarter with reversed connectionsPowermaster9533Summit RacingPWM-9533Powermaster XS Torque Starters 9533
411/S5EngineFront engine mount Mopar Cars 1966-74 B/C/E-BodyAnchor IndustriesANI-2250Borg Warner312,250
411/S5ExhaustExhaust mounting rubberJaguar E-Type S1-S2, XK140-150SNG BarrattC8397
411/S5PetrolPetrol float unitwww.smiths-instruments.co.ukFT 5301/17to be verified
411/S5PetrolPetrol float gasketAhead4HealeysFL4170
411/S5PetrolPetrol float, Copper washerAhead4HealeysFL41606 pcs needed
411/S5PetrolPetrol float, screwAhead4HealeysFL41506 pcs needed
408-411PetrolReserve ValveLucas78037bwww.fourashesgarage.co.uk
411/S5HeaterSmiths heater control valveAustin-Healey 3000Ahead4HealeysCH4280
411/S5HeaterSmiths heater control valve o-ringAustin-Healey 3000Ahead4HealeysCH4290
411/S5HeaterHeater Motor ResistorJaguar E 61-74, Mk1, Mk2, 340SNG BarrattC17428
411/S5IgnitionWiring Harness for Mopar Ignition BoxJegs555-40801
411/S5IgnitionIgnition Control boxJegs555-40805
411/S5IgnitionDistributor, electronic as originalFirecoreFC-1001
411/S5IgnitionIgnition coil, with external resistorStandard Motor ProductsUC12
411/S5IgnitionBallast ResistorsStandard Motor Products RU12
411/S5InteriorInner Door handleMG B 4 Syncro modelsRimmer BrosCZK3792
411/S5InteriorInner Door handle surroundMG B 4 Syncro modelsRimmer BrosCZA2259
411/S5InteriorDoor rod connectorMG B 4 Syncro modelsRimmer Bros37H3539
411/S5Rear axlerear wheel bearingsTimken4T-2788/2735XNTN
411/S5SteeringTrack rod ends, Track rodsAmsteer Sales Ltd. Tamworth
411/S5SteeringPower steering pumpCardone 96-6184www.summitracing.comRemanufactured Federal steering pump
411/S5Suspension, frontAnti Roll bar drop linkJensen CV8 Mk1/2/3Martin RobeyCT708
411/S5Suspension, frontShock absorbers frontSpaxG712
411/S5Suspension, frontUpper Bump stopJaguar XJSSNG BarrattC29979Holes have to be re-tapped 5/16
411/S5Suspension, frontUpper Ball JointJaguar XJSNG BarrattCAC9938X
411/S5Suspension, frontFront Springs Any spring manufacturerSteel 51CrV4/SAE6150d=16mm, De=128mm, L0= 385mm, nt=10
411/S5Suspension, rearShock absorbers rearSpaxG713
411/S5Suspension, rearTorque arm rubber gaiterAustin-Healey 3000Ahead4HealeysSG4840
411/S5Suspension, rearTorque arm rubber gaiter retaining clipAustin-Healey 3000Ahead4HealeysSG4850
411/S5Suspension, rearSelf levelling cylinder rubber gaiter Spidan25984
411/S5TransmissionRear gear box mounting Mopar Cars Anchor IndustriesANI-2525Energy SuspensionENS-5.1101G
411/S5TransmissionReverse light switch/Starting InhibitorMopar Cars 1968-90 A/B/C/E-BodyStandard Motor ProductsNS11
411/S5TransmissionReverse light switch/Starting Inhibitor connector Mopar Cars 1968-90 A/B/C/E-BodyStandard Motor ProductsHP4755
411/S5TransmissionAuto Floorshift 727 lower shift rodDodge 1966-1970, Plymouth B-Body www.classicindustries.comMP71015
411/S5TransmissionGearshift control bracketDodge 1966-1970, Plymouth B-Body www.classicindustries.comMD2540
411/S5TransmissionKickdown leverDodge 1966-1970, Plymouth B-Body www.classicindustries.comHWC9370
411/S5TransmissionGearshift control leverDodge 1966-1970, Plymouth B-Body www.classicindustries.comML18359
411/S5TransmissionShift linkage rodDodge 1966-1970, Plymouth B-Body www.classicindustries.comMP71015
411/S5WheelsHub cap badges for Avon Safety wheelIan Warreneriwarrener@btinternet.com
411/S5WiperStainless steel Wiper BladesTexB05012
411/S5WiperWiper wheel box chrome outer bezel+ gasketSVCLU72879BEZwww.s-v-c.co.uk
411/S5WiperWiper wheel box nut - 6-sidedSVC6SNwww.s-v-c.co.uk
411/S5WiperWasher JetLucasWSB131www.s-v-c.co.ukUses only one nozzle, the second nozzle is closed by a brass grub screw

Jensen C-V8 Alternative Parts list

I just came across it and although it is for the Jensen CV8 some parts common to Bristol are mentioned and the other alternatives are interesting as they are listed in the groups that mention Bristol.

However do not assume that all parts in the list fit our Bristol cars!

Geoff Kingston

http://jensencv8.weebly.com/c-v8-alternative-parts-list.html

Bristol Handbooks & Manuals

In order to improve accessibility we have now put all the manuals (Instruction Manuals, Spares Handbooks and Workshop Manuals) into a password-protected dedicated area in the Archive under Bristol Manuals.

Note: You have be logged in to access this area.

408-411 reverse lamps

This is Lucas part L595.

The reverse lamp is shared with the Jaguar e type series 1.

Can be purchased from Jaguar specialists and eBay.  Gaskets, lenses and surrounds can be purchased on their own.

One source to consider is SNG Barratt where new units cost about £45 each.  

408-411 front side light/ indicators

The front indicator/ side light units are Lucas model L584.  There are separate left and right handed units.

These can presently be purchased from Holden’s for about £50 a unit or Ebay used for a little less.

Girling Brake Parts List

Girling_Parts_List-1

According to Girling, this is the master cylinder they supplied for the 411. The Girling master cylinder part number 64068550 cross references to Chrysler UK part number 3058872.

Removing Rear Brake Calipers on 411-S1

Tools

  • 13/16 socket wrench to remove caliper bolts and heavy hammer to get it started (not sure why this is Imperial, not metric, but 13/16 worked the best)
  • 7/16 open wrench to remove brake line (or vice grips if either the nut or line is shot and must be replaced)
  • Wire cutter to cut split pin (cotter pin)
  • 13mm socket wrench to remove shock absorber bracket
  • Small bucket to collect dripping brake fluid
  • Heavy welders gloves to protect hands when a frozen bolt breaks free and smashes your hand into something hard and sharp
  • Magnetic back light that can be positioned inside the wheel well. I bought a strong LED light at the hardware store and a round 65 kg magnet that I bolted to it

Steps

  1. After the health and safety lecture on what you need to do to jack the car up and remove the rear wheels, position the light so you can see the inner workings of the brakes
  2. Cut off the split pin that holds the emergency brake on, remove the pin and remove the cable controls
  3. Unbolt three bolts holding the shock absorber bracket to the axle. Note that the inner one may be hard to access if you leave the shock on the bracket, with the alternative of removing the shock
  4. This gives you room to unbolt the two heavy bolts that hold the caliper to the axle
  5. To loosen the heavy caliper bolts, use an extension bar on the socket wrench, or gently tap the wrench with a heavy mallet. Wear gloves
  6. When the bolts are loose but not yet off, shift to removing the hydraulic brake line that goes along the axle. If badly corroded you may find you have to sacrifice it using vice grips and flare a new pipe when reassembling. Wear gloves
  7. Position the bucket under the pipe, it will slowly drain
  8. Remove the heavy bolts and the brake calipers should come off.

For the most part, this is a standard job, except that the emergency brake and the shock absorbers get in the way.

In my case, the car had been rebuilt 14 years ago and then garaged, so bolts and nuts came apart reasonably easily. For most Bristols, you may not be so lucky. On reassembly do yourself or the next owner a favour… use anti-seize compound.

Sticking rear brakes on a 411

Here is how to identify if the brake lines are blocked and what to do.

Supplies:

  • New hardware store oil can (metal tank with pump squirting lever and 1/4″ solid tube) See amazon.co.uk/dp/B000LFTT5Q for an example
  • New hardware store 6mm clear plastic hose (3 metres) and several hose clamps to fit
  • New brake fluid
  • Kunifer brake line (a soft alloy also known as cupro/nickel) 3/16″ SAE and male & female flare tube nuts to match the Bristol thread
  • Brake flaring tool that does double flare

Remove the driver’s side (RHD) brake tube flare nut (male) from the T section. Temporarily you will be replacing this with a test brake tube flare nut. BTW, if you don’t know how to flare Kunifer brake line, it’s forgiving and easy to learn. Get the tools and watch a few YouTube videos or buy a case of beer and stop by your brake supply shop half an hour before closing time for a tutorial.

Make up the testing tool:

  • Slide the clear plastic hose over the oil can tube and hose-clamp it tight
  • Take a section of the Kunifer brake line (say 300-500mm) and double flare one end with a male tube nut that will go into the T section.
  • Put a similar double flare on the other end and slide the clear plastic hose over. You will need to use the host clamp on top of the flare to keep it from leaking under pressure.
  • Slide the other end of the clear plastic pipe over the oil can and hose clamp it.
  • Fill the oil can with new brake fluid (this is why you buy a new oil can… no contamination)

Begin testing

  • Open the bleeder valve on the opposing side of the rear axle (left/passenger side on RHD). Attach a hose into a clear glass jar on the ground that you can see from your side.
  • Pump the can. If fluid comes out on the opposing side, you know the rear axle lines are clear. You might as well keep pumping until the fluid is clear, you’re doing the equivalent of a bench bleed.
  • Close bleeder valve
  • At the front end of the car in the battery compartment, disconnect the battery to avoid sparks and then disconnect the brake line leading into the servo that connects to the rear brakes and pump again. If you are unsure which servo, climb under the car and follow it from the back to the battery compartment.
  • In theory this would reverse flow brake fluid forward until it dripped out (have a cup or big towel ready to catch pumping brake fluid (or make up and attach a female nut to metal line to plastic hose to glass jar)
  • If it does nothing (no flow from the front brake line), remove the rubber flex hose that connects the body brake line to the axle brake line. This probably is the culprit (it was for me). Try blowing air through it. If no air, you know it is junk.
  • Then hook the testing pump to the metal brake line in the battery compartment . If fluid flows out of the rear line where you removed the rubber hose, you can presume the metal line is OK.
  • You can also mechanically test this if you have a new stainless steel bicycle brake cable wire that you slide inside the car’s metal brake lines. It should come out the other end clean and with no resistance.

When doing this job, make sure you know where to buy replacement Kunifer brake lines and matching nuts because most cars will not come apart easily. Nuts may strip, or if frozen may twist the old metal lines, requiring replacement. A brake supply house should carry both the metal lines and the rubber hose. The 1970 411-S1 hose seems almost identical to “H892 Hose for British Ford, Hillman and many other British cars” (try also GBH136). Try Powertrack for parts.

V8 Cooling Problems and a Solution

Note: Even if you don’t live in New Zealand here is some useful advice!

Having checked everything people have suggested to improve my cooling with no change, I pulled the rebuilt radiator and the water pump and took them to Trevor French Radiators in Auckland (www.trevorfrenchradiators.co.nz ).

He saw nothing wrong with the water pump, so he suggested that he unsolder the radiator and check it out. First they put a hose into the top, and water flowed out the bottom, but he said that did not mean that it was travelling through the cooling fins. Not sure I understood that one, but as it turns out, he was correct.

For a fixed fee of NZ$90, he completely disassembled it and found the engine rebuild resulted in debris that had blocked the reportedly rebuilt radiator. He rodded it out and soldered it back together. He began at 2 pm and handed it back to me at 5 pm with a fresh coat of black paint. He also recommended that I take a woman’s nylon stocking and put it over the entry of the upper hose to catch any more debris.

He also said that the radiator design was quite good… more sophisticated in construction and should last another 30 years before needing attention.

On reinstalling it, I hooked up a second capillary temperature gauge and discovered that the Smith’s gauge was reading 140 C while the aftermarket gauge was about 93. Without that second opinion, I probably would have presumed I had not cured the problem. Unlike previous runs, the engine was not making those noises related to high temperature, so I am more comfortable that it is running in the 90’s. The fans going off and on seem to agree,

After a few runs up and down the hill, I pulled the upper hose off to inspect the nylon stocking. I found significant debris, blue engine paint and other junk that would have contributed to the need for a 3rd disassembly of the radiator.

Advice to others in the future…

1.      When you install a newly rebuilt or cleaned radiator, or if your car has been sitting and may have built up scale in the engine block, use the nylon stocking trick to protect the radiator.

2.      If the car overheats, it is easy enough to remove the Bristol radiator and have a shop take off the top to check for any obstructions to water flow. Even if it was just rebuilt, it could be blocked again.

3.      Do not rely on the Smiths temperature gauge. The engine block has nearby places to add a second temperature gauge, which costs less and is more reliable than an infrared gun.

4.      Other advice they gave was to never use a water blaster that comes near the radiator fins. It flattens and does damage. I’d never given it much thought, but it makes sense. He showed me an example.

Finally, anyone in NZ needing radiator work, these guys are highly recommend. Three older fellows, all white hair, the oldest radiator in the shop was from a 1927 Alvis. Good prices, great service, super knowledgeable.