I just came across it and although it is for the Jensen CV8 some parts common to Bristol are mentioned and the other alternatives are interesting as they are listed in the groups that mention Bristol.
However do not assume that all parts in the list fit our Bristol cars!
Geoff Kingston
http://jensencv8.weebly.com/c-v8-alternative-parts-list.html
In order to improve accessibility we have now put all the manuals (Instruction Manuals, Spares Handbooks and Workshop Manuals) into a password-protected dedicated area in the Archive under Bristol Manuals.
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This is Lucas part L595.
The reverse lamp is shared with the Jaguar e type series 1.
Can be purchased from Jaguar specialists and eBay. Gaskets, lenses and surrounds can be purchased on their own.
One source to consider is SNG Barratt where new units cost about £45 each.
The front indicator/ side light units are Lucas model L584. There are separate left and right handed units.
These can presently be purchased from Holden’s for about £50 a unit or Ebay used for a little less.
Suppliers
The engine mounts for the 318 poly fitted to the 407-410 appear to be a rare and expensive parts kit. This seems odd given the likely demand in the US. The Brackets fitted were the Mopar “Floating Power” engine mounts for B body cars. We were only able to find one US vendor selling new parts along with a number posts from US Plymouth owners grumbling about the price. $484 plus carriage, taxes and duty!
For later 408’s, 409, 410 & 411
According to Girling, this is the master cylinder they supplied for the 411. The Girling master cylinder part number 64068550 cross references to Chrysler UK part number 3058872.
Note: Even if you don’t live in New Zealand here is some useful advice!
Having checked everything people have suggested to improve my cooling with no change, I pulled the rebuilt radiator and the water pump and took them to Trevor French Radiators in Auckland (www.trevorfrenchradiators.co.nz ).
He saw nothing wrong with the water pump, so he suggested that he unsolder the radiator and check it out. First they put a hose into the top, and water flowed out the bottom, but he said that did not mean that it was travelling through the cooling fins. Not sure I understood that one, but as it turns out, he was correct.
For a fixed fee of NZ$90, he completely disassembled it and found the engine rebuild resulted in debris that had blocked the reportedly rebuilt radiator. He rodded it out and soldered it back together. He began at 2 pm and handed it back to me at 5 pm with a fresh coat of black paint. He also recommended that I take a woman’s nylon stocking and put it over the entry of the upper hose to catch any more debris.
He also said that the radiator design was quite good… more sophisticated in construction and should last another 30 years before needing attention.
On reinstalling it, I hooked up a second capillary temperature gauge and discovered that the Smith’s gauge was reading 140 C while the aftermarket gauge was about 93. Without that second opinion, I probably would have presumed I had not cured the problem. Unlike previous runs, the engine was not making those noises related to high temperature, so I am more comfortable that it is running in the 90’s. The fans going off and on seem to agree,
After a few runs up and down the hill, I pulled the upper hose off to inspect the nylon stocking. I found significant debris, blue engine paint and other junk that would have contributed to the need for a 3rd disassembly of the radiator.
Advice to others in the future…
1. When you install a newly rebuilt or cleaned radiator, or if your car has been sitting and may have built up scale in the engine block, use the nylon stocking trick to protect the radiator.
2. If the car overheats, it is easy enough to remove the Bristol radiator and have a shop take off the top to check for any obstructions to water flow. Even if it was just rebuilt, it could be blocked again.
3. Do not rely on the Smiths temperature gauge. The engine block has nearby places to add a second temperature gauge, which costs less and is more reliable than an infrared gun.
4. Other advice they gave was to never use a water blaster that comes near the radiator fins. It flattens and does damage. I’d never given it much thought, but it makes sense. He showed me an example.
Finally, anyone in NZ needing radiator work, these guys are highly recommend. Three older fellows, all white hair, the oldest radiator in the shop was from a 1927 Alvis. Good prices, great service, super knowledgeable.
The following contact details and addresses are for companies who undertake supplying spares and who conduct strip and rebuilding of automatic gearboxes (ie Torqueflte) and Salisbury axles.
American Auto Spares Ltd. no longer conduct strip and rebuilds but can provide most engine, gearbox, starter motors, alternators, etc. which is now the focus of their business.
The others are renovation companies who have conducted strip-down and rebuilding of Bristol V8 gearboxes and axles in the past and felt confident in ensuring a good outcome.
They always prefer to have the vehicle and are quite prepared to remove the gearbox which is taken out from the inside of the car and replaced. Both stated that the final adjustment to the auto-box is best achieved by a series of road trials.
The axle can also be stripped whilst still assembled to the vehicle saving the cost of removing it and the shipment cost of transporting such a large and heavy item.
Mobile Windscreens Bristol who trade under the name of National Windscreens at Bristol can supply windscreens. The manager there is Mike Ackerman (Mike.Ackerman@mobilewindscreens.co.uk), tel 0117-3042000. They have in stock heated and normal 411 screens. He states that these fit 408/9/10/11. He will supply and pack a screen for you but requires you to sort out the carrier.
The rubber seals are stocked by Bristol Cars Services who say that seals cover 408/9/10/11. Graeme Payne (mob 07787-138079) is the contact there and confirms that all are covered.
The other company who may have everything is American Cars Care Services Ltd, owner Martin Barnes (mob 07769-906525) barnsey411@live.co.uk . He has some 408 screens in stock and states that 408/9/10 all have the same screen but the 411 is different.
Manufacturers do not want to make replacement from other sources that easy, regularly mixing two standard bearings into one assembly, although I doubt that Bristols went this far.
Take off one complete set of bearings (2 sets of bearings per hub; the inner bearing is usually larger than the outer; both will be tapered roller bearings) and find yourself a local machine tool service company. Take your bearings in and they will measure them while you wait (about 5 minutes). There are 3 grades of bearings used classed A, B and C. The tolerances in manufacture are, of course, extremely tight so they employ an automatic grading system – A being the best and that’s what you want. C are the poorest and probably go into washing machines and the like. I think the classification system may have changed possibly 1 – 3. If the numbers on the bearings are visible you should be able to quote these to any bearing company and avoid the need to go to a machine tool service company.
Valid at time of writing in October 2016:
There are a number of good bearing suppliers eg Seager Bearings, Kings Heath, Birmingham (0121 444 5391) who will supply at trade prices.