I just came across it and although it is for the Jensen CV8 some parts common to Bristol are mentioned and the other alternatives are interesting as they are listed in the groups that mention Bristol.
However do not assume that all parts in the list fit our Bristol cars!
Geoff Kingston
http://jensencv8.weebly.com/c-v8-alternative-parts-list.html
In order to improve accessibility we have now put all the manuals (Instruction Manuals, Spares Handbooks and Workshop Manuals) into a password-protected dedicated area in the Archive under Bristol Manuals.
Note: You have be logged in to access this area.
According to Girling, this is the master cylinder they supplied for the 411. The Girling master cylinder part number 64068550 cross references to Chrysler UK part number 3058872.
Note: Even if you don’t live in New Zealand here is some useful advice!
Having checked everything people have suggested to improve my cooling with no change, I pulled the rebuilt radiator and the water pump and took them to Trevor French Radiators in Auckland (www.trevorfrenchradiators.co.nz ).
He saw nothing wrong with the water pump, so he suggested that he unsolder the radiator and check it out. First they put a hose into the top, and water flowed out the bottom, but he said that did not mean that it was travelling through the cooling fins. Not sure I understood that one, but as it turns out, he was correct.
For a fixed fee of NZ$90, he completely disassembled it and found the engine rebuild resulted in debris that had blocked the reportedly rebuilt radiator. He rodded it out and soldered it back together. He began at 2 pm and handed it back to me at 5 pm with a fresh coat of black paint. He also recommended that I take a woman’s nylon stocking and put it over the entry of the upper hose to catch any more debris.
He also said that the radiator design was quite good… more sophisticated in construction and should last another 30 years before needing attention.
On reinstalling it, I hooked up a second capillary temperature gauge and discovered that the Smith’s gauge was reading 140 C while the aftermarket gauge was about 93. Without that second opinion, I probably would have presumed I had not cured the problem. Unlike previous runs, the engine was not making those noises related to high temperature, so I am more comfortable that it is running in the 90’s. The fans going off and on seem to agree,
After a few runs up and down the hill, I pulled the upper hose off to inspect the nylon stocking. I found significant debris, blue engine paint and other junk that would have contributed to the need for a 3rd disassembly of the radiator.
Advice to others in the future…
1. When you install a newly rebuilt or cleaned radiator, or if your car has been sitting and may have built up scale in the engine block, use the nylon stocking trick to protect the radiator.
2. If the car overheats, it is easy enough to remove the Bristol radiator and have a shop take off the top to check for any obstructions to water flow. Even if it was just rebuilt, it could be blocked again.
3. Do not rely on the Smiths temperature gauge. The engine block has nearby places to add a second temperature gauge, which costs less and is more reliable than an infrared gun.
4. Other advice they gave was to never use a water blaster that comes near the radiator fins. It flattens and does damage. I’d never given it much thought, but it makes sense. He showed me an example.
Finally, anyone in NZ needing radiator work, these guys are highly recommend. Three older fellows, all white hair, the oldest radiator in the shop was from a 1927 Alvis. Good prices, great service, super knowledgeable.
The following contact details and addresses are for companies who undertake supplying spares and who conduct strip and rebuilding of automatic gearboxes (ie Torqueflte) and Salisbury axles.
American Auto Spares Ltd. no longer conduct strip and rebuilds but can provide most engine, gearbox, starter motors, alternators, etc. which is now the focus of their business.
The others are renovation companies who have conducted strip-down and rebuilding of Bristol V8 gearboxes and axles in the past and felt confident in ensuring a good outcome.
They always prefer to have the vehicle and are quite prepared to remove the gearbox which is taken out from the inside of the car and replaced. Both stated that the final adjustment to the auto-box is best achieved by a series of road trials.
The axle can also be stripped whilst still assembled to the vehicle saving the cost of removing it and the shipment cost of transporting such a large and heavy item.
Manufacturers do not want to make replacement from other sources that easy, regularly mixing two standard bearings into one assembly, although I doubt that Bristols went this far.
Take off one complete set of bearings (2 sets of bearings per hub; the inner bearing is usually larger than the outer; both will be tapered roller bearings) and find yourself a local machine tool service company. Take your bearings in and they will measure them while you wait (about 5 minutes). There are 3 grades of bearings used classed A, B and C. The tolerances in manufacture are, of course, extremely tight so they employ an automatic grading system – A being the best and that’s what you want. C are the poorest and probably go into washing machines and the like. I think the classification system may have changed possibly 1 – 3. If the numbers on the bearings are visible you should be able to quote these to any bearing company and avoid the need to go to a machine tool service company.
Valid at time of writing in October 2016:
There are a number of good bearing suppliers eg Seager Bearings, Kings Heath, Birmingham (0121 444 5391) who will supply at trade prices.
Please find contact details of the Furflex/draught excluder supplier:-
William Marston Ltd
70 Fazeley Street
Birmingham
B5 5RD
UK
Tel: 0044 121 643 0852 or 0044 121 643 0372
email: info@williammarstonltd.co.uk
website: http://www.williammarstonltd.co.uk
The boot seals can possibly be obtained from:-
Phoenix Supplies
Unit c1a Langlands Business Park
Uffculme
Cullompton
Devon EX15 3D4
UK
Contacts: Nigel or Kaye Coles
Tel: 0044 1884 849294
email: phoenixsupplies@hotmail.com
website: http://www.phoenixclassictrim.com
or –
Woolies (I & C Woolstenholmes Ltd)
Whitley Way
Northfields Industrial Estate
Market Deeping
Peterborough
PE6 8AR
UK
Tel: 01778 347347
email@ info@woolies-trim.co.uk
website: http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk
Both of these companies carry a large range of extruded sections and just may be able to help with boot and door sections.
The age old question for classic car owners is whether to fit a modern audio system that pleases the ear or a period radio that pleases the eye. Stuart Risebrow has attempted to “have his cake and eat it” by fitting a modern audio system with period looks.
This unit, manufactured by “Retrosound”, a USA company, was found to be perfect for the job. You have a range of period bezels and knobs to choose from that replicate the look of classic radios such as radio mobile and Phillips. However, the two rotating switches are detachable, allowing bespoke placement as well.
You will see that Stuart chose to make up a plywood insert to fit the mounting whole in the dash which he then veneered himself in walnut before adding a polished lacquer finish.
The “Retrosound” radio also comes with a small auxiliary unit that is wired to the rear of the radio and located remotely. This allows you to plug in an SD memory card, USB storage device or 3.5mm audio jack. The SD card allows you to store 1000’s of songs which is perfect for all those 60’s hits and Glen Miller tracks! Stuart placed my remote unit just inside the glove box. You would hardly know it was there.
The radio itself has an inbuilt amp that provides plenty of “oomph” and has all the expected outputs for larger amps, aux players or an electric ariel.
This company can supply any of the Bristol key patterns, either as a duplicate or to a code. The code can be found on the barrel of the lock. This does entail removing the barrel from the lock.
Wilco Direct
Unit D1/D2, Pinetrees Road, Pinetrees Business Park, Norwich, Norfolk, NR7 9BB
While not specific to any particular vehicle, the information contained in the link below seems to cover the early V8 Bristols but may apply also to the 6 cyls. It is included so that members may get a better understanding of how things work, and we thank Per Blomquist for sending it in.
smiths-car-heaters